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Could Prosecco have competition from Calabrian fizz?
L.M. Archer
Beyond Prosecco, other pockets of Italy produce scene-stealing sparkling wines, too – including Calabria.
Dubbed “Enotria” by the ancient Greeks, Calabria perches between the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas in southern Italy, and offers a surprise for sparkling wine fans.
“Although Calabria is the southernmost region of Italy, which would suggest temperatures unsuitable for the production of sparkling wines,” says Gennaro Convertini, director of Consorzio Terre di Cosenza DOP (Protected Designation of Origin), “The presence of mountain territories (Pollino, Sila, Aspromonte), which reach altitudes of up to 2000m (6562 ft) above sea level, makes some terrains particularly suitable for the preservation of good levels of acidity in the grapes.”
Those cooler temperatures impact flavour and aromas, too, and are “necessary for the organoleptic balance of sparkling wines,” adds Convertini, as well as “the development of aromas, which ripen in non-oxidative temperature conditions. ”
Terroir
Other Calabrian winemakers concur. “The proximity to the Ionian Sea, and the position at 500m (1,649 ft) above sea level on Mount Pollino means there is a strong diurnal range between day and night (in some periods as much as 10 degrees),” says Stefano Coppola, oenologist for wine producer Tenuta Ferrocinto in Castrovillari, on Mount Polino.
“This helps to develops aromatic notes and acidity [in the sparkling wine] that are uncommon in other southern Italian regions.”
Ferrocinto introduced its first Calabrian sparkling wines in 2010, following two years of analysing temperatures and rainfall at their estate vineyard on Mount Pollino.
Enthusiastic market response to their 100% Aglianico metodo classico ‘Dovi’ rosato brut “pushed us to continue,” says Coppola, “While remaining in niche production to maintain the artisanal character of our ‘Dovi’ sparkling wine.” READ MORE HERE.
I’m delighted to share my latest in a series of features on unexpected sparkling wine regions for The Drinks Business.